Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Chile - The Country and The Wine

Chile – The Country and The Wine ……by Susan Fahy

Most of us are familiar with Chile because of its good value selection of wines, easy to understand grape varieties and clear and simple tasting notes. However, unlike other wine making countries in the world, the majority of people are in the dark about Chile, the country - it’s geography, people and culture. When we think of France, Spain and Italy, we have a clear association with the countrys’ fine food, chic fashion houses, art, music and literary genius. Pick up a bottle of German Riesling and subconsciously we imagine Beer Fests, lederhosen and Wiener schnitzel. South Africa’s wildlife safaris & cultural diversity and Australia’s outback & bouncy kangaroos are in the back of our minds when we chose wines from these countries. But what do we associate with Chile? Where exactly is it? What language do they speak? Do they have traditional dishes?

I recently attended a meeting in Dublin hosted by The Wines of Chile in Ireland (www.winesofchile.org). This promotional body represents 90 Chilean wineries with offices in Santiago and London. It was founded in July 2002 to position Chilean wine around the world through strategic marketing and promotional activities. Wines of Chile hold annual meetings in their Dublin office and invite wine merchants throughout Ireland to attend and offer some new ideas to promote Chilean wines in Ireland. It is clear that Chiles market share in the wine industry has dropped over the last 2 years, mainly because of the resurgence of French wines and the growth in sales of Australian wines in Ireland. However, Chilean winemakers are still determined to hold their own and ensure that their popularity does not diminish on the Irish market. Some good ideas were suggested at the meeting and it concluded with the overall opinion that Chile needs to promote itself as a tangible country in the minds of consumers. It may not be possible to sustain sales growth by continuing to use promotional techniques and strategies, considering the new licensing legislation that will be introduced this September prohibiting/restricting the advertising of sale of alcohol at a reduced price. So, it’s time to learn a bit about Chile, the country…

The Country
Out on its own, Chile got it’s name from an old native language and directly translated means the ‘The end of the World’. This may be because of its isolated location on the west coast of South America. It is long and narrow country (4300km long/177 wide) enclosed by formidable natural barriers that surround the entire country. To the north the arid Atacama Desert separates it from Peru. The high Andes mountains represent a natural frontier all along the country’s east coast. To the south, the cold waters of the Drake Sea emphasize the nearness of Antarctica and to the west, Chile looks at endless masses of the South Pacific water. Could this geographic isolation be the reason for Chile’s failure to promote itself internationally?

The people
There is a population of over 16 million people in Chile. Sixty-five percent of people descend from European ethnic backgrounds, resulting in many foreign influences. Most Chilean people are of Roman Catholic faith and strongly adhere to all the beliefs that go with it. The official language of Chile is now Spanish, however, some people in remote parts continue to speak the ancient native languages. Chilean people are in general a friendly nation known for their polite mannerisms and characteristics. It is seen in the way they greet each other with either a kiss on the cheek, a hug or a friendly handshake. Family life plays a central role amongst Chilean people and even extended family congregate for special occasions. If you are planning a trip to Chile, you’re sure to be greeted with a warm welcome.

The Food
It would be nice to say that Chile stands out on it’s own when it comes to traditional foods and dishes. However, here food does not play a defining role. With combined European and South American influences, traditional Chilean food tends to be unsophisticated and complicated, yet at the same time, hearty and wholesome. Stews and pies are very popular, usually consisting of seafood, fresh vegetables, chicken or beef. Fresh corn seems to be added to a lot of Chilean dishes probably to add consistency. The ‘Empanada’, (see recipe below) is one of Chiles signature dishes, a meat pie that is served at any time of the day. A huge variety of fish is available in the country due to the length of its coastline resulting in the creation of many simple fresh seafood dishes with traditional sauces and accompaniments. Mexican-style food is also popular in Chile, with lots of fiery chilli peppers and spices added for the hardier palate.

And finally, the Wine ….
Wine has been produced in Chile for centuries. When Spanish winemakers arrived in Central and South America in the 1500’s, Chile proved to be the most successful wine region in the whole of this area. All the factors required to produce great wines – summer rain, extreme daytime and nightime temperatures, cool air from the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, a good irrigation system – are found here. As a result, a central belt of wine regions was formed producing some of the best wines in the world:

Beginning in the north …
The Elqui Valley – Chiles highest most northern region, mostly sunny climate conditions producing fresh & spicy wines including a distinct & impressive Syrah.
Limari & Choapa Valleys – Limari produces rich red and crisp white wines such as Syrah and Chardonnay. Choapa is one of Chiles newest wine regions and produces unique Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Aconcagua Valley – best known for it’s organic vineyards. Top varieties to look for from here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carmenere.
Casablanca Valley – Chiles first cool climate wine region producing excellent crisp white Sauvignon and Chardonnay. See our Casas del Bosque range at The Wine Vault
San Antonio Valley – closest to the sea and is known for its distinct Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc
Maipo Valley – this is Chiles best known wine region. The area is renowned for its red wines, notably Cabernet Sauvignon, which are intense and complex
Cachapoal Valley - vineyards in this valley nestled at the base of the Andes Mountains receive ideal conditions for the development of red varieties. Look out for a Carmenere from this region
Colchagua Valley – known for its warm Mediterranean climate and fertile soils. Expressive, full-bodied Cabernet, Carmenere, Syrah, and Malbec from this region are worth seeking out.
Curico Valley – the heartland of Chilean viticulture with all the factors for growing the perfect grape. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnays are particularly good from here.
Maule Valley – Chiles first organic wines were produced here. Red grapes benefit from the regions warm temperature, in particular Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties.
Itata Valley – more humid than the Maule Valley, here Cabernet Sauvignon reigns. However, Chardonnay is becoming centre of attention here and one to watch for.
Bio Bio & Malleco Valley – with a cooler climate, these combined wine regions are heralded as the next Casablanca valley producing superb wines including varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Gewurztraminer and more recently Pinot Noir.

OTHER INDUSTRIES IN CHILE include forestry, seafood & agricultural exports

Traditional Chilean Empanada
Recipe compliments of Juan Franciso Sotta of the Casas del Bosque vineyard, Casablanca Valley, Chile

For the pastry
1 lb plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
120g margarine
cold water

Empanada Filling
1 tbsp olive oil
½ lb lean ground beef
½ green pepper, chopped
2 tbsp garlic, chopped
2oz raisins
1oz green olives, chopped
1 ½ tbsp red wine vinegar
1 ¾ tsp allspice
1 tsp cumin
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
4oz mozzarella cheese, grated
handful of fresh coriander, chopped
1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water (egg wash)

Preheat over to 180C/350F/Gas 4

To make the pastry, combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Rub in the margarine to the flour mixture until it resembles fine bread crumbs. Add enough cold water to form a soft dough. Set aside in the fridge for 1 hour.
Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan over a medium head. Add the beef, pepper & garlic. Cook until beef loses its pink colour. Add raisins, olives, vinegar & spices and continue to cook for a further 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and add the cheese and coriander. Stir and set aside.
Roll out the dough. Cut into 4 inch circles. Brush half the dough with egg wash. Place 1 tbsp of filling on the dough. Fold over to create half a circle, pressing edges to seal. Using a fork, crimp the edges. Place on a large baking sheet. Brush with egg wash. Bake until golden brown, 12 minutes approx.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

A Toast to Burgundy

A Toast to Burgundy…
While Burgundy has only two main grape varieties you would be very foolish to think that that’s where the story begins and ends. If you were lost in Bordeaux’s Chateaux then you will certainly be scratching your head in Burgundy’s communes. Burgundy differs in many ways from Bordeaux, here there is no blending of different grape varieties, reds are made exclusively from Pinot Noir and whites are made from Chardonnay. Following the French Revolution the vineyards of Burgundy were taken back from the Church and distributed among the regions peasants. They had no reputation of their own, so these new owners sold their wine under the name of the village where the grapes were grown. Today while the label on a Bordeaux wine bottle will usually bear the name of the Chateau, on Burgundy wine labels you will find the name of the commune or village and the name of the producer will usually be found in very small print.

Over time the best vineyards within these communes developed a reputation for the wine that they were producing and became more famous than the village. These vineyards are known as Premiers Cru (first growth) and Grand Cru (great growth), the better and the best. Grand Crus are so grand that their labels don’t have to mention which commune they come from. There are two other levels of quality, the simplest is Bourgogne, made from grapes grown anywhere in the region. Next are wines with a hint of origin such as Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits.

French Inheritance Law further adds to the confusion. On the death of the owner, rather than one person inheriting the vineyard as a whole, by law, the estate must be divided between the beneficiaries. As generations have come and gone and families have intermarried, estates have been created that now consist of small plots spread across various village appellations. This results in numerous different estates, bearing a very similar name but the quality of the wine can vary dramatically. While a Medoc Chateau may produce 25,000 cases of the same wine annually, the Burgundian winemaker may only produce one tenth as many bottles and he will then divide that production among several different appellations. He may make as little as one barrel of a particular wine!

Our trip around Burgundy begins about 100 miles south of Paris in the region of, Chablis. While it is famous all over the world this region is tiny, covering just 15km x 20km with 27 communes either side of the Serein River. The soil is Kimmeridge Clay with a ridge of chalk that extends from Sancerre in the Loire Valley up to the White Cliffs of Dover. This is where some of the worlds driest and most minerally Chardonnay is produced. You will often find a flinty note and great elegance. Some winemakers will age their wine in new oak barrels while others take pride in the fact that their Chablis has no oak character at all. In this little are you will have a choice of Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru, the later coming from the best vineyards which lie in one small area just north of the town. Chablis is recommended with grilled fish but is also a good companion with white meat and even curry or tandoori.

About 200km further south we come to the Cote d’Or, the Hill of Gold. It is home to many Grand Crus in the villages of Aloxe Corton (where we find the Corton Charlemagne), Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet. The Cote d’Or’s other famous white wine village Mersault doesn’t have a Grand Cru but wines from Premier Cru vineyards are certainly worth a try. The characteristic of whites from this area is a combination of nutty, buttery richness with a mineral note. Wines here are never cheap so a little knowledge goes a long way. For the best of the reds Cote de Nuits, in the northern part of the region, is the home of many of the most intense Burgundy wines. Seek out the villages of Gevrey Chambertain, Morey St Denis, Chambolle Musigny, Vougoet and Nuits St Georges. The flavours here range from raspberry to blackcurrant to liquorice. They are robust , elegant red wines with an intense, fragrant bouquet. Enjoy with roast duck and red meats.

Heading further south we come to Cote de Beaune, which begins just a few miles south of Nuits-St-Georges around the village of Ladoix. The Côte de Beaune appellation is given to wines coming from the city of Beaune but also from 16 villages around it such as Auxey-Duresses, Chassagne-Montrachet, Ladoix, Saint-Romain and Savigny les Beaune. Red Côte de Beaune are noticeable for their aroma and their warm bouquet. They have a tendency to a slightly lighter body than those of Côtes de Nuits. Raspberry comes to the fore and sometimes beautiful floral plummy characters. The finest Grand Cru can imporve over decades. Lesser wines are best drunk in the 10 years after the harvest.

Next on route is Cote Chalonnaise, where white wines prevail. For the most interesting you will need to head for the hills where St Veran and the popular Pouilly Fuissé are produced. Although Pouilly Fuissé should be drunk within 5 years, it could be forgotten in a cellar and possibly age for 20 years or more! Pouilly Fuissé should not be confused with Pouilly Fumé, a white wine from the Loire Valley.

Pinot Noir around the World
Pinot Noir is the most widely planted red variety in New Zealand. In the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, low annual sunshine hours discouraged the planting of red varieties. But winemakers had great hopes for Pinot Noir. The initial results were not promising, however in recent years Pinot Noir from Martinborough and Central Otago has won several international awards making it one of New Zealand's most sought-after varieties. Several vineyards such as Martinborough Vineyards, Murdoch James Estate and Ata Rangi consistently produce interesting, complex wine. New Zealand Pinot Noir is fruit-driven, it tends to be quite full bodied, very approachable and oak maturation tends to be restrained. High quality examples are distinguished by savoury, earthy flavours with greater complexity.

Pinot Noir is also produced in several wine growing areas of Australia, notably in the Yarra Valley, Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula, Beechworth, Whitlands, South Gippsland, Sunbury and Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Adelaide Hills in South Australia and Tasmania. In Austria, Pinot Noir is sometimes called Blauburgunder, Blue Burgundy and produced in Burgenland and Lower Austria. Austrian Pinot Noirs are dry red wines similar in character to those of Burgundy and mostly aged in French barriques. In Germany it is called Spätburgunder, and is the most widely planted red grape. Historically much German wine produced from Pinot Noir was pale, often like rosé. However recently, despite the northerly climate, darker, richer reds are being produced, often barrel aged, in regions such as Baden, Palatinate (Pfalz) and Ahr. In Italy, where Pinot Noir is known as Pinot Nero, it has traditionally been cultivated in the Alto Adige, Collio Goriziano, Oltrepò Pavese and Trentino regions to produce Burgundy-style red wines. Cultivation of Pinot Noir in other regions of Italy, mostly since the 1980s, has been difficult due to climate and soil conditions.

David’s Top Tips of the Week

Just arrived at The Wine Vault, a new range of Australian wines from Salena Estate http://www.salenaestate.com.au/ Check out http://www.dennisonwines.com/ for more information

Weekend Wine Tastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

It's a long long way from Clare Valley to here ...

It’s a long long way from Clare Valley to here ….

You might be surprised to learn that Ireland has a wine drinking tradition dating back about 2000 years. Until recent times we would have had images of the French spending hours over dinner with their bottle of ‘Rouge’. But this banquet was happening in Ireland in Celtic times. One King of Connaught is reported as constantly ‘going from one feast of purple wine to another’. In the 11th century the Norsemen of Limerick paid an annual compliment of ‘a casket of red wine for every day of the year’ to Brian Boru. During the 18th century Ireland flowed with wine. In 1740, 1000 caskets of wine shipped from Bordeaux to England while 4000 shipped to Ireland!

Consequently, the Irish Wine Geese, the Irish citizens who left their homeland after the Battle of the Boyne and the Battle of Kinsale, have played a key role in the world’s wine trade since the early 1700’s. These ties can be found almost anywhere wine grapes are planted, from France to America, South Africa to Australia. The list of Irish wine achievers is incredible. James Concannon, born on the Aran Islands, settled in California’s Livermore Valley in 1883 and was one of the first wine makers in the area. His family has made wine there ever since. The Irish emigration Down Under was of course significant, which is why you’ll find vineyards with Irish connections in New Zealand, South Africa and especially Australia. One of the most famous wineries in Australia’s Clare Valley, Jim Barry Wines, has Irish ancestors. His Armagh Shiraz, has often been rated as one of the top wines in Australia. The Margaret River region, in South Western Australia, is home to Leeuwin Estate, one of the world’s most remote wineries. Its founder Denis Horgan, whose great-grandfather fled County Cork after the potato famine, went on to become the first premier of Western Australia in the 1880’s.
Australia's first vineyards were planted in 1788 in a small area near the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The climate there, however, didn’t suit vines and so winemakers had to seek out drier conditions in a region a little further up the coast, now the well-known Hunter Valley. Having faced many difficulties these early Australian winemakers eventually achieved considerable success. At the 1873 Vienna Exhibition the French judges, tasting blind, praised some wines from Victoria, but withdrew in protest when the provenance of the wine was revealed, on the grounds that wines of that quality must clearly be French. Australian wines continued to win high honors in French competitions. A Victorian Syrah (also called Shiraz) competing in the 1878 Paris Exhibition was likened to Château Margaux. Since then, Australia has rapidly become a world leader in both the quantity and quality of wines it produces.Today there are vineyards planted throughout all 63 designated wine regions totalling 170,000 hectares.

The late 1990’s saw an explosion of rich jammy reds and tropical fruity whites make their way onto our Wine Shop shelves and at a price where few other countries could compete. So we are all probably now familiar with the fact that, yes, Australia makes great Shiraz, but there's lots more to enjoy. Over 130 grape varieties are used to make wine in Australia and most people can only name about a dozen... What could you be missing out on? Nevertheless the classical varieties still dominate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Riesling.

Shiraz…!
Shiraz is the most widely planted grape variety in Australia and represents 26% of all wine production. It is without doubt Australia's favourite red variety, both domestically and internationally. Ripe fruit, a fleshy mid palate, soft tannins and a kick of American oak is the template of the Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Hunter Valley. But the beauty of Shiraz is that it can flourish in a range of climates. The cooler regions of Central Victoria, Coonawarra and Padthaway are also known for structured wines with black cherry, pepper and spice characters rather than the chocolate and stewed plums found in warmer climates. With an Australian Shiraz, barbecued food and well-flavoured cous-cous are great. Rich beef stews and all duck and game dishes go very well. Venison is particularly good. Our old friend to The Wine Vault, Will Nairn of Peel Estate in Western Australia is now producing a Sparkling Shiraz and brought a few cases on his last visit, for something different to impress your friends, try with rich pâté or terrine.

Chardonnay…!
Due to the highly oaked styles of the early 90’s, many people boycotted Chardonnay, preferring instead the fresher, more delicate white wine varieties, however it is again gaining popularity. 20% of all wine production in Australia is in fact Chardonnay. Chardonnay to a winemaker is like a blank canvas to an artist, the base flavour is generous, but relatively neutral so the winemakers individuality can be expressed through the winemaking techniques he uses. The style of Australian Chardonnay is difficult to categorise. Grown in warm climates, such as the Riverland or Sunraysia, the flavours are rich, ripe and uncomplicated and the structure is mouth filling and round. Flavours such as ripe peach, fig and melon are common in these wines. In cooler climates, such as the Yarra Valley and the Adelaide Hills, the structure is tighter and leaner, with flavours of lemon, grapefruit and green apple. Secondary characters of nuts, toast and vanilla come from oak contact where as butteriness comes from malolactic fermentation and creaminess from yeast lees contact. Shellfish cries out for a crisp, fruity Chardonnay while a full-bodied Chardonnay with oak will go very well with rich pâtés and also with creamy pasta and chicken dishes.

Cabernet Sauvignon…!
Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 17% of all wine produced in Australia, where it was praised for its elegance, structure and purity of fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon is seen as the exact opposite of Shiraz refined and reserved. The variety is at home in the southern region of Coonawarra where it thrives in the terra rossa soil, producing deeply coloured, firmly structured wines with great ageing potential. The long, cool growing season allows for amazing intense berry flavours. Cabernet also shines in the Margaret River where the climate is very similar to that of Bordeaux. Beautifully balanced wines with fresh berry fruit and fine tannins are the hallmarks of the Margaret River wines. Some of Australia's oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines can be found in the Barossa Valley. This state escaped phylloxera and so 100-year-old vines survive there. The yield and berry size is incredibly small, yet the colour and flavour is extraordinary. In cooler climates, mint and leafy characters intermingle with blackcurrant and red berries. In warmer climates, chocolate and tobacco characters can be found. Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely best with flavoursome meat dishes, roast lamb and pork are especially good, so too are meaty casseroles or salami. A delicious choice to follow this would be a mature hard cheese.
Wine is special in that every wine is different. The more you focus on the diversity and the more you seek it out, the more you will enjoy wine. There is a whole world of enjoyment if you dare to dabble…

http://www.winediva.com.au/grapes/chardonnay.asp

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

The Italian Adventure

The Italian Adventure …
Any wine enthusiast who claims not to be confused by Italian wines is either trying to kid you or kid themselves… Italy is without doubt, the most complicated wine producing country in the world and is home to some of the oldest wine regions. Long before the Romans started to develope vineyards in the 2nd Century B.C. the Greeks were producing wine there. Now 2000 years on, Italy remains one of the world's finest producers of wine, responsible for almost 20% of world production.

Most of us will be familiar with the regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy and the more popular red grape varieties of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz but lets venture a bit further. From Sangiovese to Trebbiano, Montepulciano to Bardolino choosing an Italian wine to swish down with your pizza or Friday night lasagne might feel like a daunting task, but don’t stick to the old reliable, bear in mind Italian wines are made for Italian food. The two go hand in hand. With hundreds of wines to choose from, it can be quite an adventure. Trying to make sense of the wine terms and names, figuring out the Italian wine classification systems not to mention familiarising yourself with the many grape varietals.

Italian wines can be divided into two main categories: Table Wines or Vino da Tavola and higher end wines where you will see the letters D.O.C. on the label, Italy’s version of the French Appellation Controlee. Then there are the better areas, which are labelled D.O.C.G. denominazione di origine controllata e garantita.

So lets start our tour of Italy in the Northwest, Piedmont region, home to the most famous wine and probably Italy’s top wine, Barolo made from the Nebbiolo grape. A good Barolo is worth keeping for at least 10 years before opening, so keep an eye on the vintage before buying, especially if you plan on having it with dinner later. This wine has a dark colour and is high in tannin and acid. They are complex and smell of black fruit, mushrooms, even truffles. Barbaresco, is its younger brother, also produced from the Nebbiolo grape. The main difference between the two is that the tannins of Barbaresco tend to soften faster, which makes the wine more approachable to drink at an earlier age but won't allow it to age for as long as a traditionally made Barolo. These wines welcome the challenge of being paired with strong flavoured meats and cheeses and will compete well with spicy Italian meats and well-aged Parmesan cheese.

The other major red grape of the region is Barbera. These wines are almost purple in colour, have a taste and smell of red fruit with good acidity. On the white side this area produces some delicious Muscats, Chardonnays and Pinot Grigios. Piedmont’s top white grape is the Arneis, which produces lovely aromatic spicy dry wines. But the whites you are most likely to come across in your local wine shop are made from Muscat; the sparkling Asti Spumante and semi sparkling, lower alcohol Moscato d’Asti. The perfect warm weather drink.

Moving on to the Northeast we find a range of Italy’s most distinctive wines and more confusion. The most famous reds in this area are Valpolicella and Bardolino of the Veneto, when they are good have a wonderful cherry flavour. Now just to be clear, Valpolicella is not a grape variety, it’s a wine named after the wine region that produces it. More than likely you will not be familiar with the grape varieties that make up the blend for Valpolicella wines. In fact, if there is one thing Italy has, it’s a lot of wine grapes that you’ve probably never heard of! Valpolicella is made up primarily of three different grape varietals; Corvina, which makes up 40 to 70% of the blend, Rondinella 20 to 40% and Molinara 5 to 20%. These three grapes were probably chosen because they ripen at the same time and they compliment one another very well. In order to avoid disappointment when choosing a Valpolicella look for one that is labelled ‘Classico’ which refers to the best part of the wine region. Beware of the word ‘Superiore’ though, as this can mean that the wine has been aged in a barrel for a year.

Amarone della Valpolicella is a typically rich Italian dry red wine made from the partially dried grapes. Grapes are harvested perfectly ripe in the first two weeks of October. They are then allowed to dry, traditionally on straw mats. This process is called ‘rasinate’ (to dry and shrivel) in Italian. This concentrates the remaining sugars and flavors with the result; a wonderful raisiny wine which goes down well with Parmesan cheese dishes.

The better known white wine of the North East, which you will be familiar is Soave. The picturesque town of Soave is situated to the east of Verona. It is surrounded by ancient walls and dominated by a medieval castle. Only grapes grown on the hills around this town are used to produce Soave Classico. When it’s good it can have a delicious almond flavour. Ideal companion for hors d'oeuvres, white meats and all kind of fish dishes. Again look out from the word ‘Classico’ on the label to avoid disappointment.

The road southward takes us to Central Italy to the cities of Florence, Rome and Sienna and the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and the Marches. This is home to the familiar wines; Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Orvieto and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Chianti wines used to be light, herby reds but today due to better wine making techniques the wines are much more interesting which age for longer. The vine covered hills of Chianti are divided into several sub regions. The word ‘Riserva’ on the label provides an official indication of barrel-ageing. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, Chianti doesn't do well by itself, but when paired with food, Chianti shines. It’s acidity pairs well with acidic foods like tomatoes and cuts through rich dishes like braised rabbit. Sangiovese is the main grape used in Chianti. It is medium bodied with a firm, dry texture and a tannic backbone that allows for moderate aging. Sangiovese has a floral bouquet, cherry aromas and flavors may evolve into leather and tobacco with age.

Now moving over to the Abruzzo area, located in south Central Italy between the central Apennines and the Adriatic coast. Abruzzo is picturesque in its scenery with many old villages and a countryside rich with historic sites. It is often said that Abruzzo has as many castles as it does sheep. Most of this region has remained locked in medieval times making Abruzzo the first stop for those seeking to take a glance at the past or a chance to see nature as it was hundreds of years ago, unspoiled and perfect. The most famous red of this area is the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, made from the Montepulciano grape! This can be a very tasty chocolatey wine and should be drunk within 3 to 4 years. Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is a whole other story.

The whites of Central Italy are a very mixed batch. Worth trying are: Tuscany’s tangy Vernacchia di San Gimignano, or the honeyed nutty wine of Orvieto in Umbria. Some Frascati’s can be terrific. Verdicchio also can be deliciously rich with notes of almond, green apple and lime. Again best drunk within 2 years, while they are young and fresh.

Southern Italy, the foot and the islands until recently had not been known for great wine but is deserving of a little mention. In recent years, new technology and a modern approach have seen vast improvemnts in wine production. Red wines tend to be full bodied, beefy and chocolatey. You will need to be careful when choosing a white as they can be quite dull, but Fiano di Avellino from Campania can have an attractive honey and plum character while good Greccheto in Umbria can be both creamy and rich.

Just a few other words that may make reading the label a little easier.
Amabile - medium sweet
Azienda - estate
Bianco - white
Cantina - winery
Dolce - sweet
Rossa - red
Rosato - rose
Secco - dry

David’s Top Tips of the Week

Wine Loyalty Cards available at The Wine Vault, High Street. Buy 12 bottles of wine and receive 1 free.

Look out for this years slow food festival of the year – Terra Madre Ireland 2008 will be held in Waterford 4th to 7th September, bringing together Artisan food producers from all over the South East … an event not to be missed. For more information, visit http://www.terramadreireland.com/

Weekend Wine Tastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Host Your Own Wine Tasting Soiree

Host your Own Wine Tasting Soiree

Whether or not the sun will come out tomorrow, it is time for us to come up with a new excuse to invite our friends and family around and have some fun. With the barbeque grill gathering dust, how about hosting your very own Wine Tasting Evening. To begin, you don’t have to know a lot about wine – a keen interest in wines and an appetite to learn is all that’s required. Nowadays, there is an overwhelming amount of information about wine available from all media sources. The internet is filled with wine facts and statistics making it possible to find out about any wine, grape variety, wine region and so much more with a simple click of a button. When deciding on a theme for you wine tasting, your local wine shop is always there to advise you and would be more that happy to assist you in choosing a good selection of wines.

Preparation for a wine tasting evening can be as simple or as fussy as you like.
Most importantly you will need people, wine and glasses. Twelve to sixteen guests is a nice size crowd to invite – one bottle of wine can serve up to sixteen guests (2oz taste each). Then, decide on a wine theme for the evening. You can choose any concept you like but it is a good idea to have a specific wine focus, whether it is grape variety, vineyard, wine region or vintage so that it is more interesting to discern each wine and critique accordingly. If you are a beginner, try to stick to more basic wines at the start. Six wine types is a good number to serve your guests in order to add depth and enthusiasm to the wine debate that unfolds.

You will need a lot of wine glasses. Try to use smaller wine glasses. I would suggest borrowing glasses from family and close friends or alternatively, you could purchase a nice selection of suitable wine glasses if you plan on hosting future wine tastings. Set up the wine glasses, 6 per person. It is a good idea to label each glass
1 to 6, so that each wine can be identified. (If you chose to host a blind wine tasting, cover each wine bottle with a paper bag and ask your guests to identify and rate each wine by the scoring methods that you decide to use). When you’re ready, pour each glass maybe a third of the way full. Examine the wine both from the side and top of the glass – it’s colour, depth & intensity. Always hold the glass by the stem so your hand doesn’t warm up the wine. Next, swirl the wine around to allow oxygen into the wine and the aromas to release. Smell the wine and try to recognize familiar scents (see below). Take a mouthful and swish the wine around every part of your tongue. Your tongue has ‘zones’ for each type of flavour – the tip senses sweet, the front sides salt, the back sides acid and the very back bitter. (visit http://www.wineboard.ie/ for more information on how to taste wines) Now the fun starts, comment on the wine, compare notes and rate the wine verbally amongst your guests. It is also a good idea to make tasting notes as you go along in order to review each wine at the end of the evening.

If you decide to serve food, try to keep it simple so that palates are not overwhelmed. A good cheese plate with crackers or crusty bread always goes down well. Fresh fruit and nuts can also be nice accompaniments, especially if they enhance the flavours of the wines. (For example: When tasting Shiraz wines with strawberry/pepper tones, sprinkle some ground black pepper on a fresh strawberry and take a bite before sampling the wine - taste the difference!). Water is a must – have still and sparkling readily available for your guests to cleanse their palates between each wine tasting. Have a bowl (spittoon) at hand for those who prefer to emit their wine after swishing it on the tongue.

If you like, hand out comment cards/scoring sheets to your guest so that they can evaluate each wine. You may choose to rate the wines on sight, smell and flavour/texture (eg 1 to 5) – create a method to suit you and your guests.

Here are some flavours to look for in wines:

Spices – cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, liquorice, mint, vanilla
Nuts – almonds, hazelnuts
Flowers – rose, violet, white flowers
Fruits – apple, apricot, banana, cherry, citrus, fig, tropical fruits, orange peach, pear, plum, raisin
Berries – blackberry, raspberry, strawberry
Plants – grass, oak, tea, tobacco, general wood


After each wine has been tasted, it is nice to sit back and discuss each one. You will be amazed how your guests’ tastes and preferences vary, fuelling light debate. At the end of the evening, each of your guests will have decided on their favourite wine and will leave knowing their new found likes and dislikes. If your first wine tasting evening is a success, suggest monthly wine tasting evenings to your guests and take it in turns to be the perfect host.


David’s Top Tips of the Week

· The Wine Vault is now offering Wine Tasting Theme Collections to suit your Wine Tasting Evening – for more information, please visit http://www.dennisonwines.com/.

· Le Nez du Vin – this is a set of wine tasting aromas that will enhance your Wine Tasting - both educational and fun http://www.nezduvin.co.uk/

· Weekend Wine Tastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10am to 6pm

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

A Taste of Bordeaux

A Taste of Bordeaux…
When thinking of Bordeaux many of us would envisage lush vineyards laden with ripening grapes. Being the world's largest wine region, there are approximately 120,000 hectares of vines there, with a planting density of almost 6,000 vines per hectare, so at least 720 million vines in Bordeaux alone, all pruned annually, each one by hand. But as in many areas, Bordeaux can also experience some of the most bitterly cold winters, where dedicated teams of people work their way through rows of bare vines pruning as they go. This is a picture repeated all over the world, every year, although particularly in Bordeaux.

The wine regions of Bordeaux lie in the area around the city of Bordeaux within the Gironde department of Aquitaine. The Gironde River divides the region. The Left Bank area includes the Médoc and the sub-regions of St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St.-Julien and Margaux. The Right Bank includes the sub-regions of Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, Bourg and Blaye. Other wine regions include the area of Graves, which is south-east of the Médoc and includes the sub regions of Pessac-Léognan, Sauternes and Barsac. Across from Graves, on the Right Bank, is the Entre-Deux-Mers area between the Gironde and Dordogne rivers. So with all of these sub regions and different laws governing each it’s little wonder that most people find themselves mystified by the complexity of it all.

While winemaking styles vary, the general rule is that the Left Bank produces red wines predominately from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. The land here is mostly graves or gravel. The Right Bank tends more towards Merlot and the less well-known Cabernet Franc. Here limestone, clay and sand are more prominent. The Graves area produces both red wine and white wine from the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes. The area of Sauternes and Barsac, which lies south of the city of Bordeaux, are better known for their dessert wines.

All of these regions have their own Appellation and Appellation d'origine contrôlée, laws which dictate the composition of their vineyards, time of harvest and suitable yields as well as various winemaking techniques. Bordeaux wine labels will include the region on the front if all the grapes have been harvested in a specific region.

Let’s take a mosey around the area to see what we can uncover. Firstly to The Medoc located on the Left Bank of the Gironde estuary and to the north of the city of Bordeaux, it is home to around 1,500 vineyards. 40 million bottles of full-bodied fruity red wine are produced here each year. Oak, red fruits, spices & vanilla are the typical aromas of these wines with perfect food pairings to roasted red meats, game and cheeses.

Next we find the area of Margaux, which lays on a soil of white gravel - a special kind of gravel brought from the mountains by the river. Château Margaux is, of course, the most famous Chateau in this area covering approximately 100 hectares (250 acres). They are 18 Grands Crus Classés (great growths) in Margaux. The area produces the most delicate and elegant wines of the Médoc, 9.5 million bottles of medium to full bodied red wine each year that can be aged for 5 to 25 years. Some vintages to look out for 2005, 2003, 2000, 1998, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1986, 1982. Distinctive aromas of Margaux wines are red fruits, toast, coffee and truffles. Try them with roasted duck, game or red meats or a fine cheese board.

The area of Graves is next on our journey lying just outside the city of Bordeaux. It gets its name from the soil; a mix of gravels, clay and sand carried out by the river. The red wines here are recognizable by their garnet red colour, rich, attractive and more robust than the other Médoc wines. Two third of Graves wines are white and are among the best white wines in Bordeaux, they are generally fresh, fruity and dry or semi-dry. The appellation of "Graves supérieurs" is strictly reserved to sweet white wines.

Then on-route we find Sauternes – The King of Sweet Wines. Sauternes is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by noble rot, causing the grapes to become partly raisin; this results in concentrated and distinctively flavoured wine. Production can be unpredictable, with widely varying harvests from vintage to vintage, so you can expect to pay quite high prices for these delicacies. The most famous estate in Sauternes, is the Premier Cru Supérieur Château d'Yquem, with Irish connections to Patrick Mac Mahon, dating back to 1877. Impress your guests by serving with Foie Gras, Asparagus, Lobster or trout.

Moving further along and deserving of a little mention is Entre Deux Mers; not exactly between two seas but between the two rivers; the Dordogne and Garonne. Entre-Deux-Mers produces a very good dry, fresh and fruity white wine from the Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle grapes. Winemakers prefer to keep their best grapes for Entre-Deux-Mers instead of Bordeaux AOC. However because of the compact soil, this is not the best place to grow vines in Bordeaux.

Hopping across then to Saint Emilion the oldest wine area of the Bordeaux region. This is a World Heritage site, with fascinating Romanesque churches and ruins stretching all along steep, narrow streets. The Romans planted vineyards here as early as the 2nd century AD. Saint Emilion wines are considered the most robust of Bordeaux. They are full-bodied, very rich and reach maturity quicker than other red Bordeaux. As in Pomerol and other appellations on the right bank of the Gironde, the primary grape varieties used are Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with relatively small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon. Typical aromas would be Truffles, Toasted bread and stewed red fruits. Try with Mushrooms, Game, Salmon, Roasted Lamb.

Exploring further on the right bank we come across the smallest wine producing area in the Bordeaux region with 800 ha, Pomerol. It is more a community where the vineyards are family-shared. You will not find typical huge Bordeaux chateaux as in the Médoc, however Pomerol hosts one of the most famous of all: Chateau Pétrus. Pomerol wine can be very robust but they have an exclusive velvety quality. Pomerol is at its very best when the bottle reaches the age of 15! Lying close by is Fronsac set in a lovely area of hills along the Dordogne and l'Isle rivers. Until the 19th century Fronsac wine was one of the most popular in the region. Merlot is the most important grape here giving to the wine body and richness.

Finally we reach Côtes de Bourg located on the right bank of the Dordogne at the point where it meets the Gironde river. South of Blaye, the small appellation around the village of Bourg produces about 31 million bottles of medium-body red wine from the Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec grapes. The wine from Côtes de Bourg is quite tannic with strong aromas of red fruits. You can age this wine from 2 to 5 years with recommended vintages 2003 and 2005. Serve with grilled meats, veal, turkey or pâté.

When you’ve finished exploring the area of the Haute Gironde and enjoying a game of Boules with the locals, you can hop on the car ferry at Blaye that will take you back across the estuary to the Medoc, where you can start all over again…

David’s Top Tips of the Week

§ If you can’t light the BBQ, why not have some friends round for dinner with a difference. Host your own ‘Wine & Food Tasting’…Watch out next week for our Top Tips
§ Check out Aer Arann http://www.aerarann.com/ for frequent flights between Waterford and Bordeaux this summer.
§ Weekend Wine Tastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

The Wine Geese

The “Wine Geese”…
The idea of owning a vineyard might not be everybody's cup of tea. But, I'd say the idea works for a lot of us…surrounded by rolling valleys, century old vines and cellars laden with dusty bottles. Well, that dream came true for many of our ancestors and perhaps if you were to do a little searching back through the generations you might well find a link to your own family.

You, undoubtedly, have heard of the "Flight of the Wild Geese", the name given to Irish migrants of the 17th and 18th Centuries. But what about the “Wine Geese”…

In 1689, a mighty battle took place on the banks of the River Boyne with a result that secured ruling of Ireland for the victorious Protestants. Any Catholics who objected were advised to skip town. Over the next 60 years, many of them did just that. In 1691, the 'Flight of the Wild Geese' officially commenced when 14,000 Catholic soldiers and 10,000 women and children left for France. Due to banishments and land confiscations 2 further waves of migration occurred in 1715 and 1745. Irish emigrants left Irish shores, taking boats for Nantes, Rouen and Bordeaux. Bordeaux, capital of the wine world today, became their home, with the Loire Valley and Cognac close behind. Almost immediately they immersed themselves in the wine trade. They exported wine back to Ireland and cleverly the ships returned laden with premium Irish beef and butter, textiles and metals.

When Thomas Jefferson, America's leading wine connoisseur, visited Bordeaux in the 1770s, he discovered that the principal wine merchants on Bordeaux’s Quai des Chartrons were the Irish families of Gernon, Barton, Johnston, Foster, Skinner, Coppinger and MacCarthy. The most prominent man in the city was the wine-broker Abraham Lawton, formerly of Skibbereen, West Cork. Other well-known 'Irish Wine Geese' families include Kirwan, Clarke, Dillon, Phelan, Hennessy and Lynch. Today, Bordeaux boasts 14 Chateaux, 10 Streets and 2 wine communes with distinctive Irish names.

In the late 18th Century, Scotland and to an even greater extent Ireland were the main outlets for Bordeaux wines. Customs duties were less exorbitant than those imposed by England so consumption of French wines was stronger as a result. The Irish gentry, in particular, were renowned for its partiality to ‘A Fine Claret’.

France was by no means the only beneficiary from Ireland's growing passion for high quality wines and ports. Irish emigrants were involved in winemaking from Mexico to South Africa to the remote regions of Australia and New Zealand. Some of the first vineyards of California's Napa Valley were planted by gold mining millionaire Samuel Brannan, son of a Waterford emigrant. Other Californian winery's founded by the Irish include Durney (perhaps a link to my own ancestors), Delaney Vineyards, Ravenswood, the Limerick Lane Cellars, Murphy-Goode and Kenwood (owned by the Lee family).

Lets take a short stroll through the Bordeaux Vineyards.

Chateau Leoville Barton 1826 2nd Growth, St Julien, Bordeaux
‘French Tom’ Barton left his home in Curraghmore, near Enniskillen in 1722; by 1744 the Barton’s had established themselves as the most important traders in fine wines in the whole region of Medoc. Grandson of Thomas Barton, founder of Barton & Guestier, Hugh Barton consolidated the considerable family fortune. After having to flee France during the Revolution, he returned to his homeland. Having acquired Château Langoa in 1821, Barton bought part of Château Léoville in 1826 and called it Léoville Barton. Since that date, this vineyard has always belonged to the same family. Anthony was born and raised in Ireland. He grew up on his family estate, Straffan House in Kildare, now the K Club.

Chateau Phelan-Segur 1810 Bernard Phelan, a wealthy landowner from Clonmel, Co. Tipperary, accepted an invitation from his friend Hugh Barton in 1792 to join him in Bordeaux where the Bartons were already established as one of the leading wine-producing firms. The Phelans went on to purchase the Clos de Garramey in St. Estephe, and soon established a reputation as remarkable winegrowers. In 1810, they acquired the Domain de Segur, joined the two properties together and created Chateau Phelan-Segur.

Chateau MacCarthy 1818 Cru Grand Bourgeouis, St Estephe, Bordeaux
This vineyard owes it’s name to Denis MacCarthy, a member of the ancient MacCarthy clan of Carbery who originally owned the Castle of Skibereen in Co Cork. Denis went on to become a leading figure in Bordeaux society. Rue MacCarthy in Bordeaux commemorates this great family. Although not in the front line of famous Bordeaux clarets, Chateau MacCarthy is full-bodied and robust with plenty of fruit and represents good value for money.

The Clarkes of Dromantin, originally from County Down, are still resident in Bordeaux. Luc-Tobie Clarke gave the name Château Clarke to his vineyards in Listrac. This Bordeaux magistrate bought the estate in 1775 and had the château built there in 1810. The estate was then sold to the Saint-Guirons family, who remained the owners until 1955. Since 1979, Château Clarke has been part of the 177 hectares of vineyards belonging to Baron Edmond de Rothschild, who has undertaken some fabulous restoration work on them.

Château Kirwan, which is set close to the vineyards of Cantenac, owes its name to a wine trader from Galway. Sir John Collingwood bought the estate in 1715 before handing it to Kirwan when he married his daughter. Kirwan was stripped of all his assets and guillotined during the Revolution. His son survived and became chief editor of a regional newspaper before heading back to Ireland. The family recovered its property and finally decided to sell the estate in 1802. The Margaux Troisième Cru Classé wine now belongs to the Schröder et Schÿler company.

Waterford’s love affair with Wine stretches back into the mists of time, but the marriage was celebrated in the 1230’s when King Henry granted Waterford the special exemption of only paying half the import duty on wine. At The Wine Vault on the Viking High Street, you can see the stone remains of a 15th Century fortified town house probably built by Peter Rice who was mayor of Waterford in 1426. His son James Rice became an important exporter of wool and related goods, leather and fish. He dealt principally with Spain from where he imported large amounts of wine. The brick vaulting at The Wine Vault dates back to the 18th Century when the famous Gallwey family owned the building. They operated it as a bonded warehouse brimmed full of imported Brandy, Geneva, Port, Maderia, Claret, Hock and Malmsey. Archaeological excavations on the site revealed 13th Century Bordeaux wine jars!

David’s Top Tips of the Week

Check out Aer Arann http://www.aerarann.com/ for frequent flights between Waterford and Bordeaux this summer.
Weekend Wine Tastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm.
Spanish Wine Night at The Wine Vault next Wednesday 16th with Mr Jaume Garcia of the Mont Marcal vineyard in the Penedes. Phone 051 853777 to book as numbers are limited.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Wine & Cheese

Wine & Cheese – Two of A Kind

Since the dawn of time, cheese and wine have played an important role in our lives even as far back as the mythical Cyclops, the mad one-eyed cheese maker who is said to have churned his cheese in wicker baskets. And remember the Bacchus, the Greek god of wine who, as legend has it, was a very popular god with quiet a few people…. not suprising! Since then, wine and cheese have joined forces and evolved into a sensory duo, probably as a result of their many similarities from production to expiration.

Wine and cheese, considered a naturally well matched pair are usually seen hanging around together at parties and gastronomic events quiet effortlessly knowing that their fusion will create a stir to those who taste them. Each of them on their own, hold their own flavours brimming with palatable nuances depending on their individual variety and style. However, when this pair is savoured simultaneously, the synergy that occurs between them creates a whole new flavour for us to enjoy, harmonising to enhance each others finer qualities. Quiet a phenomenon one might think as wine and cheese are both created from two natural food items that would never be considered a gustatory pair – milk and grapes. Together, they would not be star of any culinary event or presented to your guests as the pieces de resistance at your dinner party.
It has been mankind’s good fortune that has led us to discover basic agricultural production methods that allow fermentation to work it’s magic on both food components resulting in the transformation of these simple ingredients into more delicious and complex delights. Their lift cycles tend to have a lot in common as both are ‘alive’ and continue to evolve and mature to perfection at which point their flavours peak.

There are hundreds of varieties of both cheese and wine and we tend to give both equal appreciation and taste them with similar desires, vocabulary and evaluative techniques. We smell, we taste, we critique. Most of us try to choose the right wine with the right cheese in order to get the most out of this pair. Although there are no hard and fast rules when matching wine and cheese.

Here are some pairing suggestions to experiment with:-

Light whites
Riesling, Muscat, Chenin Blanc, Chasselas, Viognier and unoaked Sauvignon Blanc pair well with goats cheese, soft & semi-soft cheese
Pairing suggestion Tulbagh Chenin Blanc South Africa with Lavistown Farmhouse Cheese (Lavistown, Co. Kilkenny)


Medium whites
Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Semillon & unoaked Chardonnay pair well with mild cheddar and mild gouda, brie and camembert styles
Pairing suggestion Paul Buecher Gewurztraminer Reserve Personnel 2005 Alsace with Cooleeney Camembert Style Cheese (Thurles, Co. Tipperary)

Rich whites
Oaked Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc & reserve Pinot Gris pair well with aged cheddar and aged gouda
Pairing suggestion Peel Estate Chardonnay 2004 Western Australia with
Knockalara Commeragh Irish Farmhouse Cheddar Cheese (Cappoquin, Co. Waterford)


Rose & Sparkling Wines
The majority of rose and sparkling wines pair well with mild goats cheese & soft sheeps cheese.
Pairing suggestion Mont Marcal Rosado Brut Reserva Cava with Ryefield Farm Soft Goats Cheese (Bailieboro, Co. Cavan)

Light reds
Pinot Noir, Merlot, unoaked Gamay & Cabernet Franc pair well with brie/camembert, mild cheddar and gouda
Pairing suggestion Haut Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir Burgundy with Knockanore Plain Farmhouse Cheese (Knockanore, Co. Waterford)

Rich reds
Oaked Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Zinfandel pair well with well-aged gouda and cheddar.
Pairing suggestion Casas del Bosque Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Chile with Mossfield Farmhouse Organic Mature Gouda Cheese (Birr, Co. Offaly)

Dessert Wines
Ice wines, Monbazillac and Port pair well with rich blue veined cheeses
Pairing suggestion Colheita 1987 Tawny Port with Crozier Blue Cheese (Cashel, Co. Tipperary)

The most important thing to remember is that the similarities and contrasts of your choice of wine and cheese will determine the combined flavours. Try to match the weight of the wine to the intensity of the cheese with the goal of enhancing each of their qualities. And of course success is assured when you include your personal taste along with some warm crusty white bread & savoury crackers.

(all wines are available at The Wine Vault, High Street, Waterford)

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Every Label Tells a Story

Every Label tells a Story …
For many reading a wine bottle label can certainly be a daunting task…You might feel you’d need to be a connoisseur to decipher what all of the information means. But most wine labels can tell you a lot about what's inside the bottle of wine you’re holding in your hand. Just knowing what to look for between the large and small print will tell you a great deal, such as, the source of the grapes, types of grapes, region names, percent alcohol and more.

Let’s take a look at a label and break down what it all means. This label is from a French wine from Domaine de la Janasse. With the French, the most important piece of information is the winery and the region. The French have been making wine for so long (centuries!) that most people who like French wine know the wine type by those two things. If the winery is particularly well known, the name of the winery will be the largest script on the label otherwise the region will take centre stage.

The year (or vintage as it is called in wine terms) is also very important, as it indicates how good the wine is going to be. Before purchasing a more expensive Bordeaux or Burgundy wine it would be worth your while to check out the value of the wine, by region and vintage.

Next comes the section within the region, which further defines what style the wine is made in. In France, every region is pretty set in what grapes it grows and what styles it uses to create wines. For that reason, very few labels from France list the grape variety; they're assumed to be known! Finally alcohol content is listed and possibly a term like “Mis en Bouteille au Domaine” which simply means the wine is bottled on site. Usually little more is on a French label. There may be a back label describing the wine with a tasting note but more than likely it will be ‘En Francais’.

In France the average yearly production is 70 million hectolitres (about 9 billion bottles!). A few terms that you are sure to come across on a French label are the 4 grades under which French Wines are classified:

AOC Appellation d’Origin Controllee These wines are of very high quality with strict rules of production. But this strict legislation guarantees an excellent quality wine. The rules cover methods of growing , localization, grape-variety, alcohol content...The word "Origine" is often replaced by the name of the place of origin of the wine "Appellation Cote du Rhone Controlée".

AOVDQS Appellation d'Origine Vin De Qualité Supérieure In the hierarchy of wines, this classification comes just after AOC. They are also strictly controlled. Rules apply to the area of production, grape variety, minimum alcohol, methods of growing and producing.
Vin de Pays About 25% of French wine production are Vin de Pays. Winemakers must use specific grape varieties and the label can list the grape used while AOC wine labels cannot. All wines must be analysed, tasted, approved and accepted as "Vin de Pays". These wines are increasingly popular these days, rather inexpensive and perfect for everyday drinking.

Vin de Table About 40-50% of the wine produced in France falls under this category. It is the every day wine of France and the lowest classification. There are very few restrictions. The label does not have to mention the area of origin. Typically this wine is a mix of several grapes sometimes coming from different countries within the European Union.

Wines from the New World; Australia, USA, Chile, South Africa, New Zealand are a little easier to figure out. This label comes from the Casas del Bosque vineyard in Chile. The front label gives pretty much all information that the regular wine drinker is interested in. First, the winery name in big letters, so you know what you're getting. Next the grape variety, in this case Sauvignon Blanc. Then the region name; Casablanca Valley. Below that, the year, so you know how old the wine is. All of this combined information lets you know that the wine is from a very highly rated area, and that it's a certain type of white wine that many people adore.

Another line of information, tells you that this is a "Reserve". If you know the particular winery well, you might know that they make a "normal" and a "reserve" version of a given wine, and know which one you prefer.

Also on this label you will see “Estate Bottled”. This simply means the wine was bottled on site. If a wine is not an estate wine, it means the grapes were grown in other peoples' vineyards and then brought in to make wine by the winemaker. There is no requirement to say if your grapes are grown on your estate or elsewhere.

On a new world wine you will also expect to see a back label. This gives lots more information. In most cases it will give you a description of the wine, a tasting note and recommended food to serve with the wine, which is always useful in making your final decision to purchase. It will also give you the alcohol content and perhaps an address or contact for the vineyard, which could come in handy if you decide take a trip. It may also give you the importers name.

As with French wines there are legal constraints governing the information that a new world wine label must provide, but that’s for another day.

David’s Top Tips of the Week

Wine Loyalty Cards available at The Wine Vault, High Street. Buy 12 bottles of wine and receive 1 free. Offer available until 30 June

Look out for this years slow food festival of the year – Terra Madre Ireland 2008 will be held in Waterford 4th to 7th September, bringing together Artisan food producers from all over the South East … an event not to be missed. For more information, visit http://www.terramadreireland.com/

Weekend Winetastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

This Wine IS Definitely Corked ....

Are we ever sure or confident enough with our wine knowledge to say
‘Excuse me sir, this wine is corked’. It happens time and time again in restaurants in Ireland. Wine is ordered, we sample it with a swirl of the glass, take a quick sniff (we don’t want to seem to confidant), sip and say with a nod and a smile ‘Ya, that’s fine, pour away’. Even when wine tastes like old socks, we often tend to believe it’s our poor choice of wine – the Bordeaux for €10 more would have been better.Well, all wines on a wine list should be palatable and taste good, no matter what the price. So if your wine doesn’t taste good, it is more than likely corked.

Now, the truth is, many of us, including wait staff and retail staff, do not know what ‘Corked Wine’ means. As most of us know, it’s not the crumbly bits floating on the top of your wine glass. Let’s understand the actual true meaning – a corked wine means that an invisible mould, that exists in the bark of old trees, sometimes, ends up in the pores of produced wine corks. When this mould combines with traces of bleach used to sanitize the wine corks, a reaction called TCA (tri-chloro-anisole) occurs. These damaged corks are then stuffed into wine bottles by bottlers, who are unaware of their existence. The cork inevitably becomes in contact with the wine, moistens and begins to taint the wine. The result is a bad tasting wine that often exudes very recognisable aromas of wet carpet or Hessian sacks. However, in most cases, corked wine smells flat and displays ‘musty’ flavours that can often be difficult to detect by the untrained palate. The wine colour may be off – the white wine more yellow than usual or your favourite red more brown.

Now, although this unpleasant tasting wine ain’t going to kill ya, it is currently a high profile worldwide debate among wine experts. It is said that one in fifty bottles of wine produced each year is corked. This is an outstanding statistic considering 26 billion corks go into wine bottles each year (1.4 billion spoilt wines) How many do we drink? Corks are mainly produced in Portugal from old oak tree bark and cost anywhere from 7 to 40 cents (depending on the quality). The wine experts, mostly from New World wine production countries, are blaming this traditional Portuguese cottage industry for the growing problem and point out that cork substitutes will have to start being produced.
Synthetic corks are now being used by some wine companies but are often difficult to extract from bottles. And we are all aware of the controversial screw cap, aka The ‘Stelvin Closure’ which is still slow to be accepted by wine lovers despite its tried and tested success to date.

For now, the ‘corked wine’ situation is out of our hands. So the best advice is to take your time when tasting wine. Do smell, do examine and do give the wine some time on your palate. If it doesn’t taste right to you, send it back. If it is a wine you are familiar with, it should be easy to detect a bad bottle. Wait staff should be fully trained to recognize your complaint and deal with it. When ordering a second bottle of wine with your meal, insist on tasting it again. Often, wait staff tend to top up half glasses second time round – it may be corked! Wines by the glass, same story, send it back if you think it doesn’t taste right.
And whether you purchase a bottle from a supermarket, petrol station or specialty wine shop to enjoy at home, if you open your wine and it tastes bad, no matter what you have paid for it, pour the glass back into the bottle and return it for an exchange.


Davids Top Tips of the Week

For more information on how to taste wine and all other interesting wine facts & information, visit http://www.wineboard.ie/

Sparkling Wines from France, Italy (Prosecco) & Spain (Cava) are the new chic drink this year. Try adding some fruit puree to your bubbles (peach or raspberry) for the perfect Summer cocktail.

Win a free bottle of Mont Marcal Brut Nature DO Cava – Spanish Sparkling Wine – visit http://www.dennisonwines.com/ and sign up for mailing list. Simply write ‘Cava’ in the Comment box. (closing date 27/5/08)