NEW CONCEPT 2009 - The Wine Panel

with David Dennison

at The Wine Vault Wine Shop , Waterford

Thursday 29th January 7.30 pm

Featuring Italian Organic Wines The San Polino Selection from Montalcino, Tuscany
Never seen before in Ireland & we are looking forward to tasting them with you
You are the WINE PANEL; we would like to hear what YOU think …
Can you taste all the natural passion and uniqueness of these wines?

The history of San Polino goes back at least 1,000 years. For much of its life San Polino and its original 40 hectares would have had to support an extended family of 15 to 20 people, as well as handing over half of its produce of grain, olives, sheep and wine to the local landlords. Katia Fabro & her husband Luigi bought the house with 5 hectares of land and 400 “olivastra” olive trees in 1992. They immediately planted a small vineyard of Sangiovese. The farm was certified organic in 1994. San Polino now produces 10,000/12,000 bottles of wine annually and is once again working as a living, thriving farm, hopefully with as much future as it has history.

We have been fortunate to seek out these wines and make contact with the wine makers
Katia Fabro & her husband, who have sent us a selection of wines for us to sample …
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It is €30 to attend our Wine Panel and all monies will be donated to
The Waterford Healing Arts Trust (WHAT) http://www.waterfordhealingarts.com/

Phone us NOW with your Credit Card Number to Reserve your place
Payment on the night by Cheque / Cash

Tel: 051 853 777 or email info@dennisonwines.com
Find out more information on our website http://www.dennisonwines.com/ Also visit http://www.sanpolino.it/

Turn the Downturn UP

The economic downturn has changed our outlook towards many things in particular on how we spend our money. For some of us, life is the same – same job, same assets, same person – but with the media hype that is surrounding the recession, we can’t help ourselves being a little wiser when it comes to shelling out hard earned euro.

There seems to be a trend beginning when it comes to shopping at ‘Small Local Businesses’. People are supporting the small businesses to avoid letting them become victims of the times. It doesn’t seem to be a problem to spend that little bit extra in order to get better quality products, often homemade or handcrafted, with the added benefit of supporting local. The same can be said for the consumer attitude towards wine. To appreciate a good bottle of wine less frequently as a treat whilst supporting small local wine merchants will be the way forward for many wine drinkers. A fine Bordeaux or New Zealand Pinot Noir enjoyed with a friend is set to be the preferred alternative to too many glasses of inferior quality cheaper wine that always seems to disappoint.

Look out for Wine Sales and Bargain Bin End wines at your local neighbourhood Wine Merchant shops. Now is the time to experiment with new wines or stock up on you special favourites for every occasion.
March Madness 3 Day Wine Sale at The Wine Vault Wine Shop, High Street, Waterford. Starts 5th March. Visit www.dennisonwines.com for more details.

Chile - The Country and The Wine

Chile – The Country and The Wine ……by Susan Fahy

Most of us are familiar with Chile because of its good value selection of wines, easy to understand grape varieties and clear and simple tasting notes. However, unlike other wine making countries in the world, the majority of people are in the dark about Chile, the country - it’s geography, people and culture. When we think of France, Spain and Italy, we have a clear association with the countrys’ fine food, chic fashion houses, art, music and literary genius. Pick up a bottle of German Riesling and subconsciously we imagine Beer Fests, lederhosen and Wiener schnitzel. South Africa’s wildlife safaris & cultural diversity and Australia’s outback & bouncy kangaroos are in the back of our minds when we chose wines from these countries. But what do we associate with Chile? Where exactly is it? What language do they speak? Do they have traditional dishes?

I recently attended a meeting in Dublin hosted by The Wines of Chile in Ireland (www.winesofchile.org). This promotional body represents 90 Chilean wineries with offices in Santiago and London. It was founded in July 2002 to position Chilean wine around the world through strategic marketing and promotional activities. Wines of Chile hold annual meetings in their Dublin office and invite wine merchants throughout Ireland to attend and offer some new ideas to promote Chilean wines in Ireland. It is clear that Chiles market share in the wine industry has dropped over the last 2 years, mainly because of the resurgence of French wines and the growth in sales of Australian wines in Ireland. However, Chilean winemakers are still determined to hold their own and ensure that their popularity does not diminish on the Irish market. Some good ideas were suggested at the meeting and it concluded with the overall opinion that Chile needs to promote itself as a tangible country in the minds of consumers. It may not be possible to sustain sales growth by continuing to use promotional techniques and strategies, considering the new licensing legislation that will be introduced this September prohibiting/restricting the advertising of sale of alcohol at a reduced price. So, it’s time to learn a bit about Chile, the country…

The Country
Out on its own, Chile got it’s name from an old native language and directly translated means the ‘The end of the World’. This may be because of its isolated location on the west coast of South America. It is long and narrow country (4300km long/177 wide) enclosed by formidable natural barriers that surround the entire country. To the north the arid Atacama Desert separates it from Peru. The high Andes mountains represent a natural frontier all along the country’s east coast. To the south, the cold waters of the Drake Sea emphasize the nearness of Antarctica and to the west, Chile looks at endless masses of the South Pacific water. Could this geographic isolation be the reason for Chile’s failure to promote itself internationally?

The people
There is a population of over 16 million people in Chile. Sixty-five percent of people descend from European ethnic backgrounds, resulting in many foreign influences. Most Chilean people are of Roman Catholic faith and strongly adhere to all the beliefs that go with it. The official language of Chile is now Spanish, however, some people in remote parts continue to speak the ancient native languages. Chilean people are in general a friendly nation known for their polite mannerisms and characteristics. It is seen in the way they greet each other with either a kiss on the cheek, a hug or a friendly handshake. Family life plays a central role amongst Chilean people and even extended family congregate for special occasions. If you are planning a trip to Chile, you’re sure to be greeted with a warm welcome.

The Food
It would be nice to say that Chile stands out on it’s own when it comes to traditional foods and dishes. However, here food does not play a defining role. With combined European and South American influences, traditional Chilean food tends to be unsophisticated and complicated, yet at the same time, hearty and wholesome. Stews and pies are very popular, usually consisting of seafood, fresh vegetables, chicken or beef. Fresh corn seems to be added to a lot of Chilean dishes probably to add consistency. The ‘Empanada’, (see recipe below) is one of Chiles signature dishes, a meat pie that is served at any time of the day. A huge variety of fish is available in the country due to the length of its coastline resulting in the creation of many simple fresh seafood dishes with traditional sauces and accompaniments. Mexican-style food is also popular in Chile, with lots of fiery chilli peppers and spices added for the hardier palate.

And finally, the Wine ….
Wine has been produced in Chile for centuries. When Spanish winemakers arrived in Central and South America in the 1500’s, Chile proved to be the most successful wine region in the whole of this area. All the factors required to produce great wines – summer rain, extreme daytime and nightime temperatures, cool air from the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, a good irrigation system – are found here. As a result, a central belt of wine regions was formed producing some of the best wines in the world:

Beginning in the north …
The Elqui Valley – Chiles highest most northern region, mostly sunny climate conditions producing fresh & spicy wines including a distinct & impressive Syrah.
Limari & Choapa Valleys – Limari produces rich red and crisp white wines such as Syrah and Chardonnay. Choapa is one of Chiles newest wine regions and produces unique Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Aconcagua Valley – best known for it’s organic vineyards. Top varieties to look for from here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carmenere.
Casablanca Valley – Chiles first cool climate wine region producing excellent crisp white Sauvignon and Chardonnay. See our Casas del Bosque range at The Wine Vault
San Antonio Valley – closest to the sea and is known for its distinct Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc
Maipo Valley – this is Chiles best known wine region. The area is renowned for its red wines, notably Cabernet Sauvignon, which are intense and complex
Cachapoal Valley - vineyards in this valley nestled at the base of the Andes Mountains receive ideal conditions for the development of red varieties. Look out for a Carmenere from this region
Colchagua Valley – known for its warm Mediterranean climate and fertile soils. Expressive, full-bodied Cabernet, Carmenere, Syrah, and Malbec from this region are worth seeking out.
Curico Valley – the heartland of Chilean viticulture with all the factors for growing the perfect grape. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnays are particularly good from here.
Maule Valley – Chiles first organic wines were produced here. Red grapes benefit from the regions warm temperature, in particular Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties.
Itata Valley – more humid than the Maule Valley, here Cabernet Sauvignon reigns. However, Chardonnay is becoming centre of attention here and one to watch for.
Bio Bio & Malleco Valley – with a cooler climate, these combined wine regions are heralded as the next Casablanca valley producing superb wines including varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Gewurztraminer and more recently Pinot Noir.

OTHER INDUSTRIES IN CHILE include forestry, seafood & agricultural exports

Traditional Chilean Empanada
Recipe compliments of Juan Franciso Sotta of the Casas del Bosque vineyard, Casablanca Valley, Chile

For the pastry
1 lb plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
120g margarine
cold water

Empanada Filling
1 tbsp olive oil
½ lb lean ground beef
½ green pepper, chopped
2 tbsp garlic, chopped
2oz raisins
1oz green olives, chopped
1 ½ tbsp red wine vinegar
1 ¾ tsp allspice
1 tsp cumin
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
4oz mozzarella cheese, grated
handful of fresh coriander, chopped
1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water (egg wash)

Preheat over to 180C/350F/Gas 4

To make the pastry, combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Rub in the margarine to the flour mixture until it resembles fine bread crumbs. Add enough cold water to form a soft dough. Set aside in the fridge for 1 hour.
Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan over a medium head. Add the beef, pepper & garlic. Cook until beef loses its pink colour. Add raisins, olives, vinegar & spices and continue to cook for a further 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and add the cheese and coriander. Stir and set aside.
Roll out the dough. Cut into 4 inch circles. Brush half the dough with egg wash. Place 1 tbsp of filling on the dough. Fold over to create half a circle, pressing edges to seal. Using a fork, crimp the edges. Place on a large baking sheet. Brush with egg wash. Bake until golden brown, 12 minutes approx.

A Toast to Burgundy

A Toast to Burgundy…
While Burgundy has only two main grape varieties you would be very foolish to think that that’s where the story begins and ends. If you were lost in Bordeaux’s Chateaux then you will certainly be scratching your head in Burgundy’s communes. Burgundy differs in many ways from Bordeaux, here there is no blending of different grape varieties, reds are made exclusively from Pinot Noir and whites are made from Chardonnay. Following the French Revolution the vineyards of Burgundy were taken back from the Church and distributed among the regions peasants. They had no reputation of their own, so these new owners sold their wine under the name of the village where the grapes were grown. Today while the label on a Bordeaux wine bottle will usually bear the name of the Chateau, on Burgundy wine labels you will find the name of the commune or village and the name of the producer will usually be found in very small print.

Over time the best vineyards within these communes developed a reputation for the wine that they were producing and became more famous than the village. These vineyards are known as Premiers Cru (first growth) and Grand Cru (great growth), the better and the best. Grand Crus are so grand that their labels don’t have to mention which commune they come from. There are two other levels of quality, the simplest is Bourgogne, made from grapes grown anywhere in the region. Next are wines with a hint of origin such as Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits.

French Inheritance Law further adds to the confusion. On the death of the owner, rather than one person inheriting the vineyard as a whole, by law, the estate must be divided between the beneficiaries. As generations have come and gone and families have intermarried, estates have been created that now consist of small plots spread across various village appellations. This results in numerous different estates, bearing a very similar name but the quality of the wine can vary dramatically. While a Medoc Chateau may produce 25,000 cases of the same wine annually, the Burgundian winemaker may only produce one tenth as many bottles and he will then divide that production among several different appellations. He may make as little as one barrel of a particular wine!

Our trip around Burgundy begins about 100 miles south of Paris in the region of, Chablis. While it is famous all over the world this region is tiny, covering just 15km x 20km with 27 communes either side of the Serein River. The soil is Kimmeridge Clay with a ridge of chalk that extends from Sancerre in the Loire Valley up to the White Cliffs of Dover. This is where some of the worlds driest and most minerally Chardonnay is produced. You will often find a flinty note and great elegance. Some winemakers will age their wine in new oak barrels while others take pride in the fact that their Chablis has no oak character at all. In this little are you will have a choice of Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru, the later coming from the best vineyards which lie in one small area just north of the town. Chablis is recommended with grilled fish but is also a good companion with white meat and even curry or tandoori.

About 200km further south we come to the Cote d’Or, the Hill of Gold. It is home to many Grand Crus in the villages of Aloxe Corton (where we find the Corton Charlemagne), Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet. The Cote d’Or’s other famous white wine village Mersault doesn’t have a Grand Cru but wines from Premier Cru vineyards are certainly worth a try. The characteristic of whites from this area is a combination of nutty, buttery richness with a mineral note. Wines here are never cheap so a little knowledge goes a long way. For the best of the reds Cote de Nuits, in the northern part of the region, is the home of many of the most intense Burgundy wines. Seek out the villages of Gevrey Chambertain, Morey St Denis, Chambolle Musigny, Vougoet and Nuits St Georges. The flavours here range from raspberry to blackcurrant to liquorice. They are robust , elegant red wines with an intense, fragrant bouquet. Enjoy with roast duck and red meats.

Heading further south we come to Cote de Beaune, which begins just a few miles south of Nuits-St-Georges around the village of Ladoix. The Côte de Beaune appellation is given to wines coming from the city of Beaune but also from 16 villages around it such as Auxey-Duresses, Chassagne-Montrachet, Ladoix, Saint-Romain and Savigny les Beaune. Red Côte de Beaune are noticeable for their aroma and their warm bouquet. They have a tendency to a slightly lighter body than those of Côtes de Nuits. Raspberry comes to the fore and sometimes beautiful floral plummy characters. The finest Grand Cru can imporve over decades. Lesser wines are best drunk in the 10 years after the harvest.

Next on route is Cote Chalonnaise, where white wines prevail. For the most interesting you will need to head for the hills where St Veran and the popular Pouilly Fuissé are produced. Although Pouilly Fuissé should be drunk within 5 years, it could be forgotten in a cellar and possibly age for 20 years or more! Pouilly Fuissé should not be confused with Pouilly Fumé, a white wine from the Loire Valley.

Pinot Noir around the World
Pinot Noir is the most widely planted red variety in New Zealand. In the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, low annual sunshine hours discouraged the planting of red varieties. But winemakers had great hopes for Pinot Noir. The initial results were not promising, however in recent years Pinot Noir from Martinborough and Central Otago has won several international awards making it one of New Zealand's most sought-after varieties. Several vineyards such as Martinborough Vineyards, Murdoch James Estate and Ata Rangi consistently produce interesting, complex wine. New Zealand Pinot Noir is fruit-driven, it tends to be quite full bodied, very approachable and oak maturation tends to be restrained. High quality examples are distinguished by savoury, earthy flavours with greater complexity.

Pinot Noir is also produced in several wine growing areas of Australia, notably in the Yarra Valley, Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula, Beechworth, Whitlands, South Gippsland, Sunbury and Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Adelaide Hills in South Australia and Tasmania. In Austria, Pinot Noir is sometimes called Blauburgunder, Blue Burgundy and produced in Burgenland and Lower Austria. Austrian Pinot Noirs are dry red wines similar in character to those of Burgundy and mostly aged in French barriques. In Germany it is called Spätburgunder, and is the most widely planted red grape. Historically much German wine produced from Pinot Noir was pale, often like rosé. However recently, despite the northerly climate, darker, richer reds are being produced, often barrel aged, in regions such as Baden, Palatinate (Pfalz) and Ahr. In Italy, where Pinot Noir is known as Pinot Nero, it has traditionally been cultivated in the Alto Adige, Collio Goriziano, Oltrepò Pavese and Trentino regions to produce Burgundy-style red wines. Cultivation of Pinot Noir in other regions of Italy, mostly since the 1980s, has been difficult due to climate and soil conditions.

David’s Top Tips of the Week

Just arrived at The Wine Vault, a new range of Australian wines from Salena Estate http://www.salenaestate.com.au/ Check out http://www.dennisonwines.com/ for more information

Weekend Wine Tastings at The Wine Vault every Friday & Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm.

It's a long long way from Clare Valley to here ...

It’s a long long way from Clare Valley to here ….

You might be surprised to learn that Ireland has a wine drinking tradition dating back about 2000 years. Until recent times we would have had images of the French spending hours over dinner with their bottle of ‘Rouge’. But this banquet was happening in Ireland in Celtic times. One King of Connaught is reported as constantly ‘going from one feast of purple wine to another’. In the 11th century the Norsemen of Limerick paid an annual compliment of ‘a casket of red wine for every day of the year’ to Brian Boru. During the 18th century Ireland flowed with wine. In 1740, 1000 caskets of wine shipped from Bordeaux to England while 4000 shipped to Ireland!

Consequently, the Irish Wine Geese, the Irish citizens who left their homeland after the Battle of the Boyne and the Battle of Kinsale, have played a key role in the world’s wine trade since the early 1700’s. These ties can be found almost anywhere wine grapes are planted, from France to America, South Africa to Australia. The list of Irish wine achievers is incredible. James Concannon, born on the Aran Islands, settled in California’s Livermore Valley in 1883 and was one of the first wine makers in the area. His family has made wine there ever since. The Irish emigration Down Under was of course significant, which is why you’ll find vineyards with Irish connections in New Zealand, South Africa and especially Australia. One of the most famous wineries in Australia’s Clare Valley, Jim Barry Wines, has Irish ancestors. His Armagh Shiraz, has often been rated as one of the top wines in Australia. The Margaret River region, in South Western Australia, is home to Leeuwin Estate, one of the world’s most remote wineries. Its founder Denis Horgan, whose great-grandfather fled County Cork after the potato famine, went on to become the first premier of Western Australia in the 1880’s.
Australia's first vineyards were planted in 1788 in a small area near the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The climate there, however, didn’t suit vines and so winemakers had to seek out drier conditions in a region a little further up the coast, now the well-known Hunter Valley. Having faced many difficulties these early Australian winemakers eventually achieved considerable success. At the 1873 Vienna Exhibition the French judges, tasting blind, praised some wines from Victoria, but withdrew in protest when the provenance of the wine was revealed, on the grounds that wines of that quality must clearly be French. Australian wines continued to win high honors in French competitions. A Victorian Syrah (also called Shiraz) competing in the 1878 Paris Exhibition was likened to Château Margaux. Since then, Australia has rapidly become a world leader in both the quantity and quality of wines it produces.Today there are vineyards planted throughout all 63 designated wine regions totalling 170,000 hectares.

The late 1990’s saw an explosion of rich jammy reds and tropical fruity whites make their way onto our Wine Shop shelves and at a price where few other countries could compete. So we are all probably now familiar with the fact that, yes, Australia makes great Shiraz, but there's lots more to enjoy. Over 130 grape varieties are used to make wine in Australia and most people can only name about a dozen... What could you be missing out on? Nevertheless the classical varieties still dominate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Riesling.

Shiraz…!
Shiraz is the most widely planted grape variety in Australia and represents 26% of all wine production. It is without doubt Australia's favourite red variety, both domestically and internationally. Ripe fruit, a fleshy mid palate, soft tannins and a kick of American oak is the template of the Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Hunter Valley. But the beauty of Shiraz is that it can flourish in a range of climates. The cooler regions of Central Victoria, Coonawarra and Padthaway are also known for structured wines with black cherry, pepper and spice characters rather than the chocolate and stewed plums found in warmer climates. With an Australian Shiraz, barbecued food and well-flavoured cous-cous are great. Rich beef stews and all duck and game dishes go very well. Venison is particularly good. Our old friend to The Wine Vault, Will Nairn of Peel Estate in Western Australia is now producing a Sparkling Shiraz and brought a few cases on his last visit, for something different to impress your friends, try with rich pâté or terrine.

Chardonnay…!
Due to the highly oaked styles of the early 90’s, many people boycotted Chardonnay, preferring instead the fresher, more delicate white wine varieties, however it is again gaining popularity. 20% of all wine production in Australia is in fact Chardonnay. Chardonnay to a winemaker is like a blank canvas to an artist, the base flavour is generous, but relatively neutral so the winemakers individuality can be expressed through the winemaking techniques he uses. The style of Australian Chardonnay is difficult to categorise. Grown in warm climates, such as the Riverland or Sunraysia, the flavours are rich, ripe and uncomplicated and the structure is mouth filling and round. Flavours such as ripe peach, fig and melon are common in these wines. In cooler climates, such as the Yarra Valley and the Adelaide Hills, the structure is tighter and leaner, with flavours of lemon, grapefruit and green apple. Secondary characters of nuts, toast and vanilla come from oak contact where as butteriness comes from malolactic fermentation and creaminess from yeast lees contact. Shellfish cries out for a crisp, fruity Chardonnay while a full-bodied Chardonnay with oak will go very well with rich pâtés and also with creamy pasta and chicken dishes.

Cabernet Sauvignon…!
Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 17% of all wine produced in Australia, where it was praised for its elegance, structure and purity of fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon is seen as the exact opposite of Shiraz refined and reserved. The variety is at home in the southern region of Coonawarra where it thrives in the terra rossa soil, producing deeply coloured, firmly structured wines with great ageing potential. The long, cool growing season allows for amazing intense berry flavours. Cabernet also shines in the Margaret River where the climate is very similar to that of Bordeaux. Beautifully balanced wines with fresh berry fruit and fine tannins are the hallmarks of the Margaret River wines. Some of Australia's oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines can be found in the Barossa Valley. This state escaped phylloxera and so 100-year-old vines survive there. The yield and berry size is incredibly small, yet the colour and flavour is extraordinary. In cooler climates, mint and leafy characters intermingle with blackcurrant and red berries. In warmer climates, chocolate and tobacco characters can be found. Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely best with flavoursome meat dishes, roast lamb and pork are especially good, so too are meaty casseroles or salami. A delicious choice to follow this would be a mature hard cheese.
Wine is special in that every wine is different. The more you focus on the diversity and the more you seek it out, the more you will enjoy wine. There is a whole world of enjoyment if you dare to dabble…

http://www.winediva.com.au/grapes/chardonnay.asp